{"id":22251,"date":"2022-10-25T14:56:33","date_gmt":"2022-10-25T12:56:33","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/a-trips.sk\/?p=22251"},"modified":"2022-10-25T14:56:35","modified_gmt":"2022-10-25T12:56:35","slug":"esfahan-mesto-na-rieke-zayandeh-bez-rieky","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/a-trips.sk\/en\/esfahan-mesto-na-rieke-zayandeh-bez-rieky\/","title":{"rendered":"Esfahan \u2013 mesto na rieke Zayandeh bez rieky"},"content":{"rendered":"

Esfahan<\/strong> sa nach\u00e1dza v nadmorskej v\u00fd\u0161ke asi 1500 m.n.m. v pohor\u00ed Zagros. M\u00e1 asi 1,6 mili\u00f3na obyvate\u013eov a je centrom rovnomennej provincie. Mesto je zn\u00e1me rafin\u00e9rkou, v\u00fdrobou vlny, bavlny, hodv\u00e1bu a brok\u00e1tu. V jeho okol\u00ed sa pestuje obilie a tabak. Toto mesto malo ve\u013ek\u00fd v\u00fdznam u\u017e v minulosti po\u010das obdobia vl\u00e1dy S\u00e1s\u00e1novcov. Mohamed Reza Pahlavi1<\/sup><\/a> sa podujal na prestavbu mesta.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Druh\u00e9 najv\u00e4\u010d\u0161ie n\u00e1mestie na svete<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

If you are interested in Iran and the Balkans, you will also find us\u00a0here<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

Cesta do Esfahanu trvala asi 4 hodiny (320 km), teda menej ako zo Shirazu do Yazdu<\/a>, kde to bolo 450 km. Teda n\u00e1m ostal e\u0161te \u010das na prehliadku a zozn\u00e1menie sa s mestom. Toto mesto mi padlo do oka na prv\u00fd poh\u013ead. V prvom rade to bolo najv\u00e4\u010d\u0161ie mesto, ktor\u00e9 som do tej doby v Ir\u00e1ne videla. Mesto <\/strong>sa mi zdalo podstatne zelen\u0161ie ako ostatn\u00e9<\/strong>. Cez mesto pretek\u00e1 rieka Zayandeh, t\u00e1 je v\u0161ak vyschnut\u00e1<\/strong> a objavuje sa iba v zime (boli tu dokonca zaparkovan\u00e9 aj vodn\u00e9 bicykle). To mu v\u0161ak neuber\u00e1 na kr\u00e1se. Okolo rieky s\u00fa parky, ihrisk\u00e1 a \u0161portovisk\u00e1. Mesto je modern\u00e9 a odhliadnuc od oble\u010denia miestnych \u017eien nem\u00e1te ani najmenej pocit, \u017ee sa nach\u00e1dzate na Strednom v\u00fdchode.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Po ceste sme samozrejme vyhladli, teda na\u0161a prv\u00e1 zast\u00e1vka bola obed. Na obed <\/strong>sme mali cestoviny s te\u013eac\u00edm m\u00e4som, kuracie s om\u00e1\u010dkou s vla\u0161sk\u00fdch orechou<\/strong> and kuftu \u2013 guli\u010dka z mlet\u00e9ho m\u00e4sa<\/strong>. Prekr\u00e1sny bol interi\u00e9r re\u0161taur\u00e1cie, v ktorom op\u00e4\u0165 prevl\u00e1dali modr\u00e1 a biela. Steny boli poma\u013eovan\u00e9 obrazmi a uprostred bola op\u00e4\u0165 font\u00e1na. Po uhasen\u00ed sm\u00e4du a hladu to mohlo op\u00e4\u0165 za\u010da\u0165…nov\u00e9 prostredie, \u010fal\u0161ia kapitola rozpr\u00e1vky. Hor sa do spozn\u00e1vania tohto mesta!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Kufta – n\u00e1\u0161 obed<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Po obede sme tro\u0161ka zab\u0155dli aj do kult\u00fary. Po dobrom obede sa toti\u017e \u017eiadala k\u00e1va. Ocitli sme sa v kaviarni. Po obede dobre padol velik\u00e1nsky kol\u00e1\u010d chu\u0165ou podobn\u00fd na\u0161ej b\u00e1bovke ve\u013ek\u00fd ako polovica taniera a citron\u00e1da. V tejto kaviarni sme v\u0161ak mohli po\u010du\u0165 uk\u00e1\u017eku typickej ir\u00e1nskej hudby<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Esfahan je sl\u00e1vny hlavne v\u010faka jednej svojej pamiatke a to je 2.najv\u00e4\u010d\u0161ie n\u00e1mestie na svete – Naqsh \u2013 e Jahan<\/strong>. V preklade jeho n\u00e1zov znamen\u00e1 \u201epolovica sveta\u201c. M\u00e1 takmer 90 000 m2<\/strong>, d\u013a\u017eku 560 m a \u0161\u00edrku 160 m. V roku 1598 sem preniesol svoje s\u00eddlo \u0161\u00e1h Abb\u00e1s<\/strong> a vystaval tu toto n\u00e1mestie. N\u00e1mestie je obkolesen\u00e9 baz\u00e1rom, uprostred sa nach\u00e1dza font\u00e1na. Cel\u00e9 n\u00e1mestie je popretk\u00e1van\u00e9 cesti\u010dkami a chodn\u00edkmi. Priestor samozrejme dotv\u00e1ra zele\u0148, tr\u00e1vnik, kvety a upraven\u00e9 tuje. Prv ne\u017e sme vst\u00fapili na toto n\u00e1mestie sme zabo\u010dili na rohu n\u00e1mestia do obchodu s kobercami<\/strong>. Nav\u0161t\u00edvi\u0165 Perziu a nedozvedie\u0165 sa nie\u010do o kobercoch pr\u00edp. si nechyti\u0165 prav\u00fd kvalitn\u00fd persk\u00fd koberec, je akoby ste v Perzii ani neboli.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Perzsk\u00e9 koberce<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Vst\u00fapili sme teda do predajne, kde sa na n\u00e1s z ka\u017edej strany rynuli hromady kobercov. Koberce na podlahe, na sten\u00e1ch, visiace zo stropu, na dver\u00e1ch. V\u0161etky prekr\u00e1sne. Majite\u013e obchod\u00edku si pre n\u00e1s pripravil mal\u00fa prezent\u00e1ciu. Obozn\u00e1mil n\u00e1s s v\u00fdrobou kobercov, vzormi, materi\u00e1lmi, farbami. Uk\u00e1zal n\u00e1m 2 identick\u00e9 koberce, pri\u010dom vek star\u0161ieho bol 100 rokov a mlad\u0161ieho p\u00e1r mesiacov. Oba vyzerali \u00faplne identicky. Tajomstvo persk\u00fdch kobercov je v tom, \u017ee s\u00fa 100 % pr\u00edrodn\u00e9. Vyr\u00e1baj\u00fa sa ru\u010dne z hodv\u00e1bu a bavlny. Farbia sa iba pr\u00edrodn\u00fdmi farbivami. U\u017e len ich hr\u00fabka a jemnos\u0165 je neporovnate\u013en\u00e1 s kobercami, ktor\u00e9 kupujeme doma. V Ir\u00e1ne sa koberce be\u017ene pou\u017e\u00edvaj\u00fa aj na stoli\u010dky a stoly. Cena persk\u00e9ho koberca z hodv\u00e1bu je asi 160 eur za rozmer na\u0161ej roho\u017eky.<\/strong> No oplat\u00ed sa…ur\u010dite V\u00e1s pre\u017eije.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Naqsh – e Jahan<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Ni\u010d netu\u0161iac po opusten\u00ed tohto obchodu sa po p\u00e1r krokoch pred nami otvorilo toto obrovsk\u00e9 n\u00e1mestie.<\/strong> U\u017e po\u010das t\u00fdchto poobedn\u00fdch hod\u00edn bolo pln\u00e9 \u013eud\u00ed. V tieni sa us\u00e1dzali Ir\u00e1nci, ktor\u00ed sem pri\u0161li vychutna\u0165 si svoju ve\u010deru<\/strong>. Ka\u017ed\u00fd k\u00fasok tr\u00e1vnika sa postupne zap\u013a\u0148al dekami a piknikuj\u00facimi rodinami. Niektor\u00e9 z nich si v hrcoch priniesli svoju ve\u010deru. Samozrejme nech\u00fdbali taniere, poh\u00e1re a pr\u00edbor. Nikomu nevadilo, \u017ee jedia na tr\u00e1ve v polo\u013eahu. S klesaj\u00facim slnkom sa tr\u00e1vnik zap\u013a\u0148al viac a viac. Deti si kr\u00e1tili chv\u00ed\u013eu bicyklovan\u00edm, hrami a k\u00fapan\u00edm sa vo font\u00e1ne. Na jej okraji posed\u00e1vali mamy, ktor\u00e9 sa kr\u00e1tili \u010das rozhovormi s in\u00fdmi mamami str\u00e1\u017eiac svoje ratolesti vo vode.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Najv\u00fdznamnej\u0161\u00edmi pamiatkami na tomto n\u00e1mest\u00ed s\u00fa pal\u00e1c Ali Qapu<\/strong>, me\u0161ita Sheikh Lotfollah a me\u0161ita Imam <\/strong>naz\u00fdvan\u00e1 aj \u0160\u00e1hova me\u0161ita. V\u0161etky tieto pamiatky dop\u013a\u0148aj\u00fa charakter tohto n\u00e1mestia a rozb\u00fdjaj\u00fa monot\u00f3nnos\u0165 baz\u00e1ru. Prvou pamiatkou, kam na\u0161e kroky smerovali, bol pal\u00e1c Ali Qapu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tento pal\u00e1c bol s\u00eddlom vlad\u00e1rov dynastie Saf\u00edjovcov. Bol postaven\u00e1 \u0161\u00e1hom Abb\u00e1som I. v 17.storo\u010d\u00ed. M\u00e1 6 poschod\u00ed. V preklade jeho n\u00e1zov znamen\u00e1 ve\u013ek\u00e1 br\u00e1na. Pal\u00e1c sl\u00fa\u017eil na prij\u00edmanie n\u00e1v\u0161tev a \u0161\u00e1h tu oslavoval aj Nowruz, teda ir\u00e1nsky nov\u00fd rok. V pal\u00e1ci m\u00f4\u017eete vidie\u0165 n\u00e1stenn\u00e9 ma\u013eby so zvierac\u00edmi a rastlinn\u00fdmi mot\u00edvmi a dvere s typick\u00fdmi vitr\u00e1\u017eami. S\u00fa\u010das\u0165ou pal\u00e1ca je aj terasa, odkia\u013e je v\u00fdh\u013ead na cel\u00e9 n\u00e1mestie. V \u010dase na\u0161ej n\u00e1v\u0161tevy miesto praskalo vo \u0161v\u00edkoch v\u010faka po\u010dtu turistov. Boli to v\u0161ak pov\u00e4\u010d\u0161inou miestni. Ka\u017ed\u00fd chce ma\u0165 zachyten\u00e9 n\u00e1mestie pr\u00e1ve z tejto terasy. \u0160\u00e1h z tejto terasy pozoroval aj vodn\u00e9 p\u00f3lo, vojensk\u00e9 man\u00e9vre a jazdeck\u00e9 preteky. N\u00e1mestie bolo teda aj v minulosti centrom diania cel\u00e9ho mesta s \u010dul\u00fdm ruchom.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Tak\u00e9to s\u00fa ir\u00e1nske \u017eeny<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u0160\u00e1h Abbas I.2<\/sup><\/a> zohral d\u00f4le\u017eit\u00fa \u00falohu aj v s\u00favislosti s 2 me\u0161itami, ktor\u00e9 s\u00fa s\u00fa\u010das\u0165ou n\u00e1mestia. Priamo oproti pal\u00e1cu sa nach\u00e1dza me\u0161ita Sheikh Lotfollah<\/strong>. Ide o men\u0161iu me\u0161itu, ktor\u00e1 bola s\u00fakromnou me\u0161itou a sl\u00fa\u017eila potreb\u00e1m \u0161\u00e1ha<\/strong>. Stavala sa 16 rokov. Me\u0161itu zrekon\u0161truoval v roku 1920 Reza Ch\u00e1n Pahl\u00e1v\u00ed3<\/sup><\/a>, ktor\u00fd vo v\u0161eobecnosti prispel k rozvoju architekt\u00fary v krajine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Najkraj\u0161ou a najv\u00e4\u010d\u0161ou me\u0161itou je v\u0161ak me\u0161ita Im\u00e1m<\/strong> alebo \u0160\u00e1hova me\u0161ita. Vo v\u0161eobecnosti patr\u00ed k ve\u013edielam ir\u00e1nskej architekt\u00fary. Po vstupe sa dostanete na n\u00e1dvorie, ktor\u00e9 na ka\u017edej svetovej strane zdob\u00ed iwan4<\/sup><\/a>. Tak ako v ka\u017edej me\u0161ite v Ir\u00e1ne aj tu sa m\u00f4\u017eete donekone\u010dna kocha\u0165 bohatou v\u00fdzdobou. V jednom z iwanov si m\u00f4\u017eete overi\u0165 moc akustiky. Pokia\u013e sa postav\u00edte do jeho stredu a nie\u010do poviete, ozvena Va\u0161e slov\u00e1 zn\u00e1sob\u00ed nieko\u013ekokr\u00e1t. T\u00e1to me\u0161ita je po Shir\u00e1zskej sklenej asi druhou najkraj\u0161ou, ktor\u00fa by som odporu\u010dila nevyhnecha\u0165.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Me\u0161ita Im\u00e1m<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Po podve\u010dere str\u00e1venom na tomto magickom mieste sme sa i\u0161li ubytova\u0165. N\u00e1\u0161 hotel5<\/sup><\/a> sa nach\u00e1dzal priamo pri rieke a jednom zo sl\u00e1vnych Esfah\u00e1nskych mostov Si O Se Pol<\/strong>. Mosty na rieke s\u00fa \u010fal\u0161ou z d\u00f4le\u017eit\u00fdch s\u00fa\u010dast\u00ed ka\u017ed\u00e9ho turistick\u00e9ho itiner\u00e1ru. V\u00e4\u010d\u0161ina bola postaven\u00e1 tie\u017e \u0161\u00e1hom Abb\u00e1som a s\u00fa to skvosty architekt\u00fary. Most Si O Se Pol je najv\u00e4\u010d\u0161\u00edm z 11 historick\u00fdch mostov na rieke. Je dlh\u00fd asi 300 m, m\u00e1 2 poschodia, obe s\u00fa tvoren\u00e9 typick\u00fdmi ark\u00e1dami, ktor\u00fdch je spolu 33. Most je ve\u010der vysvieten\u00fd a m\u00e1 neuverite\u013en\u00fa atmosf\u00e9ru.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Most Si o Se Pol<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Po r\u00fdchlej hotelovej ve\u010deri zlo\u017eenej z kuracieho kebabu a mojej ir\u00e1nskej kamar\u00e1tky \u2013 bielo- \u017eltej ry\u017ee zapitej ir\u00e1nskou variantou Coca Coly som sa vybrala u\u017ei\u0165 si pr\u00e1ve atmosf\u00e9ru tohto mosta. Okrem sl\u00e1vneho n\u00e1mestia aj tento most je miesto, kde sa ve\u010der z\u00edde asi cel\u00fd Esfah\u00e1n<\/strong>. V klenb\u00e1ch posed\u00e1vaj\u00fa rodiny, mlad\u00ed ale aj star\u0161\u00ed. Deti sa veselo hraj\u00fa na ka\u017edom mo\u017enom vo\u013enom k\u00fasku, teenageri so spev\u00e1ckymi amb\u00edciami si sk\u00fa\u0161aj\u00fa svoj talent v klenb\u00e1ch so skvelou akustikou. \u010casto sa okolo nich z\u00edde mal\u00e9 publikum, ktor\u00e9 ich povzbudzuje.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

T\u00ed, \u010do sa na most nezmestia, preto\u017ee je tu naozaj plno, si vychutn\u00e1vaj\u00fa prech\u00e1dzku pod n\u00edm v suchom koryte rieky. Voda, ktor\u00e1 sem v zime prite\u010die, vypln\u00ed koryto na napriek tomu je rieka ve\u013emi plytk\u00e1. Predpoklad\u00e1m, \u017ee sa d\u00e1 aj zavodnen\u00e1 bez probl\u00e9mov prebrodi\u0165. Samozrejme \u013eudmi sa to hem\u017eilo aj v parkoch pri rieke. Nikomu nevadilo, \u017ee u\u017e je dos\u0165 neskor\u00e1 hodina. Ir\u00e1n akoby so z\u00e1padom slnka o\u017eil. \u0164a\u017eko sa t\u00e1to atmosf\u00e9ra op\u00fa\u0161\u0165a, no \u00fanava rob\u00ed svoje. Vydala som sa teda sp\u00e4\u0165 cez t\u00fato v\u00fdkladn\u00fa skri\u0148u \u017eivota sp\u00e4\u0165 do hotela.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hotel Parsian Suite bol 3 hviezdi\u010dkov\u00fd hotel. Zo v\u0161etk\u00fdch nav\u0161t\u00edven\u00fdch bol tento najmenej pekn\u00fd. Bol zariaden\u00fd star\u0161\u00ed n\u00e1bytkom, s priestrannou k\u00fape\u013e\u0148ou, klimatiz\u00e1ciou a Wifi. Teda \u00faplne posta\u010doval. Napriek tomu je toto mesto prv\u00e9 v mojom osobnom zozname odpor\u00fa\u010dan\u00ed miest, ktor\u00e9 je treba vidie\u0165 v Ir\u00e1ne.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Me\u0161ita Im\u00e1m<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Ke\u010f sa mi ob\u010das nechce r\u00e1no vst\u00e1va\u0165, spomeniem si v\u017edy na r\u00e1no v Esfah\u00e1ne. Mili\u00f3nov\u00e9 mesto, ktor\u00e9 bolo len pred chv\u00ed\u013ekou pln\u00e9 \u017eivota, je skoro r\u00e1no takmer pr\u00e1zdne a tich\u00e9. Ani by ste nepovedali, \u017ee je tak\u00e9 ve\u013ek\u00e9. Prekr\u00e1sny poh\u013ead sa mi nad t\u00fdmto tichom pon\u00fakol z balk\u00f3na. Oproti st\u00e1li majest\u00e1tne 5000 metrov vysok\u00e9 hory pieskovej farby, nad ktor\u00fdmi sa dv\u00edhalo slnko. A bol \u010das na ra\u0148ajky. Ra\u0148ajky v hoteli boli bohat\u00e9 a kone\u010dne som si pochutila na miestnych syroch a sal\u00e1mach.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u010eal\u0161\u00edmi pam\u00e4tihodnos\u0165ami, za ktor\u00fdmi sme sa z hotela vydali bola katerd\u00e1la Vank<\/strong>. Vank znamen\u00e1 v arm\u00e9n\u010dine kl\u00e1\u0161tor. T\u00e1to katedr\u00e1la je kres\u0165anskou katedr\u00e1lou v arm\u00e9nskej \u010dasti mesta<\/strong>. Aj v Ir\u00e1ne \u017eij\u00fa kres\u0165ania. Nie je to len moslimsk\u00e1 krajina. T\u00e1to \u0161tvr\u0165 bola r\u00e1no podobne ako mesto takmer cel\u00e1 pr\u00e1zdna. U\u017e na prv\u00fd poh\u013ead si v\u0161imnete, \u017ee ste v lokalite inej kult\u00fary. T\u00fato katerd\u00e1lu postavili v 16.storo\u010d\u00ed Arm\u00e9ni, ktor\u00ed sa tu usadili za vl\u00e1dy Abb\u00e1sa. Na dvore m\u00f4\u017eete n\u00e1js\u0165 hroby protestantov a ortodoxn\u00fdch kres\u0165anov, m\u00fazeum a kni\u017enicu. V m\u00fazeu <\/strong>sa dozviete hist\u00f3riu katerd\u00e1ly a Arm\u00e9nov v Esfah\u00e1ne. Samotn\u00e1 katerd\u00e1la je mal\u00e1, noje ve\u013emi vz\u00e1cna pre svoje fresky. V\u0161etky steny katedr\u00e1ly od podlahy a\u017e po strop s\u00fa zdoben\u00e9 ru\u010dne ma\u013eovan\u00fdmi v\u00fdjavmi z Biblie. Hriech nevidie\u0165.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Katedr\u00e1la Vank<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

K\u00fasok od katedr\u00e1ly sme sa po jej n\u00e1v\u0161teve zastavili v miestnej kaviarni\u010dke.<\/strong> Kaviare\u0148 mala asi 4 stoly a cel\u00fa sme ju zaplnili. V\u00fdnimo\u010dne som ochutnala k\u00e1vu, ke\u010f\u017ee je v tejto kl\u00edme aj k\u00e1va ve\u013emi d\u00f4le\u017eit\u00e1. Zv\u00fd\u0161i krvn\u00fd tlak, ktor\u00fd neust\u00e1la hor\u00fa\u010dava zni\u017euje. \u010cakaj\u00fac na ulici som e\u0161te k\u00fapila zop\u00e1r poh\u013eadn\u00edc od starej babi\u010dky, pre ktor\u00fa to bola asi jedin\u00e1 mo\u017enos\u0165 ako si zarobi\u0165 trocha pe\u0148az\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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V\u00fdzdoba katedr\u00e1ly<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

V\u0161etci sme zostali prekvapen\u00ed, ke\u010f n\u00e1\u0161 autobus zastavil v podzemnom kruhovom objazde, kde vo vonkaj\u0161om pruhu bez probl\u00e9mov zaparkoval. Neu\u0161ili sme, kam ideme. Vy\u0161li sme po schodoch a vida ho pred nami me\u0161ita Jameh<\/strong> (Piatkov\u00e1 me\u0161ita). Ako som u\u017e spom\u00ednala piatkov\u00fdch me\u0161\u00edt je v Ir\u00e1ne viac. T\u00e1to me\u0161ita bola \u010diasto\u010dne in\u00e1 ako ostatn\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Me\u0161ita Jameh<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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T\u00e1to me\u0161ita u\u017e mala trocha in\u00fd charakter<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Ch\u00fdbala tu typick\u00e1 v\u00fdzdoba v niektor\u00fdch \u010dastiach. V\u00fdzdobu tvorili iba reli\u00e9fy a \u0161tukov\u00e1 v\u00fdzdoba na povrchu surov\u00fdch teh\u00e1l. Jednozna\u010dne tu preva\u017euje pieskov\u00e1 a tehlov\u00e1 farba. Prv\u00e1 me\u0161ita tu st\u00e1la u\u017e v 8. storo\u010d\u00ed. Niektor\u00e9 \u010dasti me\u0161ity vyzerali naozaj ve\u013emi staro a odli\u0161ne od tradi\u010dn\u00fdch farebn\u00fdch v\u00fdzdob. Za touto najstar\u0161ou \u010das\u0165ou v\u0161ak u\u017e n\u00e1jdete typick\u00e9 iwany aj s typickou v\u00fdzdobou a n\u00e1dvor\u00edm. Zauj\u00edmavos\u0165ou je aj podzemn\u00e1 modliteb\u0148a<\/strong>. Na juho-z\u00e1padnom kr\u00eddle za\u010d\u00edna ve\u013ek\u00fd Esfah\u00e1nsky baz\u00e1r<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Touto pamiatkou na\u0161a prehliadka Esfahanu kon\u010dila. Motaj\u00fac sa von z mesta sme e\u0161te zastavili na foto pauzu pri moste Khaju<\/strong>. Tento most je krat\u0161\u00ed ako predch\u00e1dzaj\u00faci, ale je rovnako rozpr\u00e1vkov\u00fd. Nest\u00edhala som sa \u010dudova\u0165, ako je mo\u017en\u00e9 aj z mosta urobi\u0165 pamiatku, na ktor\u00fa h\u013ead\u00edte s otvoren\u00fdmi \u00fastami. To tie na\u0161e eur\u00f3pske mosty sa maj\u00fa e\u0161te \u010do u\u010di\u0165. Per\u017eania proste stava\u0165 vedeli. Kr\u00e1tka prech\u00e1dzka po moste a jeho okol\u00ed a Esfahanu sme mohli poveda\u0165 Bedrud (Dovidenia<\/em>), \u010do som zamenila rad\u0161ej za Be omide didar (D\u00fafam, \u017ee sa \u010doskoro uvid\u00edme<\/em>).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Most Khaju<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

V Esfahane by sa dali str\u00e1vi\u0165 dni ba mo\u017eno aj mesiace. Narozdiel od Shirazu a Yazdu, ktor\u00e9 by sme mohli nazva\u0165 vr\u00e1mci ir\u00e1nsych pomerov ako men\u0161ie a komornej\u0161ie, Esfahan je cetrom perskej kult\u00fary a \u017eivota<\/strong>. Ak by ste chceli spozna\u0165 Perziu, nasa\u0165 jej atmosf\u00e9ru a mali na to iba jeden de\u0148, ur\u010dite si vyberte Esfahan. Je proste persk\u00fd. M\u00e1 prekr\u00e1snu architekt\u00faru, \u010darovn\u00e9 z\u00e1kutia, typick\u00e9 baz\u00e1ry a obchod\u00edky s kobercami, mno\u017estvo skvel\u00fdch hotelov, hromadu zelene a parkov, mil\u00fdch \u013eud\u00ed a typick\u00fd ir\u00e1nsky ruch….a okrem ir\u00e1nskej zmrzliny pripom\u00ednaj\u00facej ry\u017eu m\u00e1 aj to\u010den\u00fa. Prejs\u0165 sa po vyschnutej rieke uprostred noci m\u00e1 tie\u017e svoje zvl\u00e1\u0161tne \u010daro a cestou si samozrejme nezabudnite k\u00fapi\u0165 nie\u010do v mili\u00f3ne obchod\u00edkov a pouli\u010dn\u00fdch st\u00e1nkov.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

1<\/a>Mohamed Reza Pahl\u00e1v\u00ed \u2013 v roku 1941 vyhnali Rusi a Briti, ktor\u00ed vtrhli do krajiny ch\u00e1na a dosadili na jeho miesto Mohameda Rezu Pahl\u00e1v\u00edho.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

2<\/a>Abb\u00e1s I. Ve\u013ek\u00fd (1587 \u2013 1629) \u2013 najv\u00fdznamnej\u0161\u00ed predstavite\u013e S\u00e1fijovskej r\u00ed\u0161e. Najv\u00fdznamnej\u0161\u00edm po\u010dinom vlad\u00e1rov tejto r\u00ed\u0161e boli boje proti Osmanom, ktor\u00fdch napokon porazil Abb\u00e1s I. S\u00eddlom ustanovil pr\u00edve Esfahan. R\u00ed\u0161a zanikla v roku 1722, ke\u010f mesto dobyli Afg\u00e1nci.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

3<\/a>Dejiny Ir\u00e1nu v skratke od 10.storo\u010dia \u2013 v obdob\u00ed od 10. storo\u010dia sa \u00fazem\u00edm Ir\u00e1nu prehnali prv turkick\u00e9 kmene, potom Seld\u017euci, Mongoli a Tamerl\u00e1n. Ka\u017ed\u00fd z nich si tu do\u010dasne zalo\u017eil svoju r\u00ed\u0161u. V 13. storo\u010d\u00ed sa moci uj\u00edma S\u00e1fijovsk\u00e1 dynastia, ktor\u00e1 tu zalo\u017e\u00ed svoju r\u00ed\u0161u. Najv\u00fdznamnej\u0161\u00ed z dynastie bol Abb\u00e1s I. Ve\u013ek\u00fd. Hlavnou \u00falohou dynastie bolo porazi\u0165 Seld\u017eukov. Centrom r\u00ed\u0161e boloo mesto Esfahan. T\u00fato dynastiu vystriedali dynastie Af\u0161\u00e1rovsk\u00e1 a Kad\u017e\u00e1rovsk\u00e1 v 17. storo\u010d\u00ed. Af\u0161\u00e1rovsk\u00e1 dynastia naz\u00fdvan\u00e1 tie\u017e dynastia Zand ustanovila svojim s\u00eddlom mesto Shiraz. Jej najv\u00fdznamnej\u0161\u00edm predstavite\u013eom bol Karim Khan, ktor\u00fd priniesol r\u00ed\u0161i prosperitu. Po nej nasledovala dynastia Kad\u017e\u00e1rovcov a jej najv\u00fdznamnej\u0161\u00ed predstavite\u013e Aga Muhammad Khan. Aj napriek snahe Ruska a Brit\u00e1nie o z\u00edskanie si vplyvu nad Ir\u00e1nom, dynastia Kad\u017e\u00e1rovcov udr\u017eala suverenitu do roku 1925, teda Ir\u00e1n sa nestal eur\u00f3pskou kol\u00f3niou. V rokoch 1905 \u2013 1911 prepukla kon\u0161titu\u010dn\u00e1 revol\u00facia v krajine s cie\u013eom obmedzi\u0165 moc panovn\u00edka. Obdobie je charakteristick\u00e9 bojmi medzi parlamentom a \u0161\u00e1hom. Moc si napokon uzurpoval Reza Ch\u00e1n, ktor\u00fd odstr\u00e1nil Kad\u017e\u00e1rovcov a zalo\u017eil dynastiu Pahl\u00e1v\u00ed. Po\u010das svojej vl\u00e1dy sa sna\u017eil prikloni\u0165 k Nemecku. Vybudoval infra\u0161trukt\u00faru, priemysel, prispel k roz\u0161\u00edreniu vzdelanosti, zmenil n\u00e1zov krajiny z p\u00f4vodnej Perzie na Ir\u00e1n. V roku 1941 vtrhn\u00fa do krajiny Rusi a Briti a vy\u017een\u00fa Rezu Ch\u00e1na. Dosadia Muhammeda Rezu Pahl\u00e1v\u00edho. V povojnovom obdob\u00ed je v\u00fdznamnou osobnos\u0165ou dej\u00edn Muhammad Mosaddek \u2013 predseda vl\u00e1dy. Zn\u00e1rodnil Anglo \u2013 ir\u00e1nsku ropn\u00fa spolo\u010dnos\u0165, \u010d\u00edm rozp\u00fatal prevrat. Brit\u00e1nia a USA sa ho sna\u017eia zvrhn\u00fa\u0165, utek\u00e1 v\u0161ak do exilu. Podporovan\u00fd mocnos\u0165ami sa k moci vracia Muhammed Reza Pahl\u00e1v\u00ed, kto\u00fd rajinu modernizuje. Jeho vl\u00e1du odsudzuje a verejne proti nej vystupuje Aj\u00e1toll\u00e1h Ruholl\u00e1h Chomejn\u00ed. Ostro vystupuje aj proti USA, kv\u00f4li \u010domu sa dost\u00e1va do v\u00e4zenia a exilu. V roku 1977 za\u010d\u00ednaj\u00fa protesty proti \u0161\u00e1hovi a proz\u00e1padnej politike. O 2 roky nesk\u00f4r sa vracia z exilu Chomejn\u00ed. V referende sa Ir\u00e1nci vyslovia, \u017ee chc\u00fa islamsk\u00fa vl\u00e1du. D\u0148a 1. apr\u00edla 1979 ofici\u00e1lne vznik\u00e1 Ir\u00e1nska islamsk\u00e1 republika, ukon\u010duje sa spolupr\u00e1ca s USA a Eur\u00f3pou. Doch\u00e1dza k mnoh\u00fdm zmen\u00e1m v \u0161t\u00e1te. Ved\u00fa ho duchovn\u00fd vodca a prezident s\u00fa\u010dasne. Riadi sa z\u00e1konom \u0161ar\u00eda. \u017deny sa op\u00e4\u0165 za\u010dali zaha\u013eova\u0165. 80 \u2013 te roky sa niesli v duchu Ir\u00e1nsko \u2013 irackej vojny. Sadd\u00e1m Husajn podporovan\u00fd USA a v\u0161etk\u00fdmi mocnos\u0165ami (aj Slovenskom) si chcel z\u00edska\u0165 dominantn\u00e9 postavenie v celom regi\u00f3ne. Ir\u00e1n v\u0161ak podporuje svojich st\u00fapencov v Bagdade. Boje s\u00fa ukon\u010den\u00e9 v roku 1988, kedy Chomejn\u00ed pristupuje na pr\u00edmerie. O rok nesk\u00f4r v\u0161ak tento v\u00fdznamn\u00fd vodca umiera. Po \u0148om nasleduje nieko\u013eko menej v\u00fdznamn\u00fdch vodcov. V roku 2005 sa zvy\u0161uje nap\u00e4tie medzi USA a Ir\u00e1nom, doch\u00e1dza k re\u0161trikcii internetu, pripravuj\u00fa sa jadrov\u00e9 programy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

4<\/a>Iwan \u2013 je klenut\u00e1 hala s jednou otvorenou stranou zo strany n\u00e1dvoria. Je typick\u00fd pre ir\u00e1nsku architekt\u00faru, odkia\u013e ho prevzala aj arabsk\u00e1 kult\u00fara.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

5<\/a>Parsian Suite Hotel, Sichan, Aineh Khaneh, Esfahan<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Esfahan sa nach\u00e1dza v nadmorskej v\u00fd\u0161ke asi 1500 m.n.m. v pohor\u00ed Zagros. M\u00e1 asi 1,6 mili\u00f3na obyvate\u013eov a je centrom rovnomennej provincie. Mesto je zn\u00e1me rafin\u00e9rkou, v\u00fdrobou vlny, bavlny, hodv\u00e1bu a brok\u00e1tu. V jeho okol\u00ed sa pestuje obilie a tabak. … Continue reading →<\/span><\/a><\/p>","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":22255,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[48],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-22251","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-orient"],"yoast_head":"\nEsfahan \u2013 mesto na rieke Zayandeh bez rieky - A-TRIPS<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Esfahan sa nach\u00e1dza v nadmorskej v\u00fd\u0161ke asi 1500 m.n.m. v pohor\u00ed Zagros. 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S\u00fa miesta, ktor\u00e9 nav\u0161tevujem pravidelne kv\u00f4li \u013eu\u010fom, ktor\u00ed tam \u017eij\u00fa. \u013dudia a ich zm\u00fd\u0161\u013eanie s\u00fa toti\u017e t\u00e1 najfascinuj\u00facej\u0161ia \"vec\", ktor\u00e1 d\u00e1va v\u0161etk\u00e9mu okolo n\u00e1s hodnotu. Niekedy v\u0161ak treba povzbudi\u0165, aby \u013eudia nezabudli na svoju v\u00fdnimo\u010dnos\u0165 a uk\u00e1za\u0165 in\u00fd uhol poh\u013eadu. Nie som odborn\u00edk a ani sa za neho nevyd\u00e1vam. Ke\u010f m\u00f4\u017eem, pom\u00f4\u017eem a povzbud\u00edm. Z mojich cestovate\u013esk\u00fdch snov si chcem \u010doskoro splni\u0165 Ir\u00e1n a Kolumbiu. No najviac doma sa c\u00edtim na alb\u00e1nskej pl\u00e1\u017ei. In\u0161pir\u00e1ciou s\u00fa mi in\u00e9 kult\u00fary a ich vn\u00edmanie okolit\u00e9ho sveta. 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